From Farm to Fashion: The Craftsmanship Behind Irish Tweed Caps
When you wear an Irish tweed cap, you’re stepping into Ireland’s history and becoming part of a story from farm to fashion, embracing the authentic craftsmanship that combines practicality and style. From humble beginnings as a staple in the wardrobe of working-class men and boys to dominating catwalks and celebrity style the world over, the Irish tweed cap has made an impressive journey, and we’re here to celebrate that.
At Weavers of Ireland, our ancestors created a little bit of magic with their weaving and knitting skills, and our mission is to preserve this for future generations to enjoy. We are proud to be part of the antidote to fast fashion, and our catalogue contains tweed and woollen garments, hats and homewares that have Ireland’s heritage at their core.
From Sheep to Loom
Traditionally, the wool used to produce clothing and hats here in Ireland would have come from the sheep that were bred here, and some of our wool still comes from Irish sheep. Today, we also make use of the high-quality wools available from producers across the world, and the journey from sheep to processing and weaving remains the same.
Sheep are the ideal grazing animal, with woolly coats that offer natural protection against the weather and keep them warm in all conditions. Grazing outdoors all year round, the rich grasses that they eat contribute to the development of strong, resilient wool. Sheep are usually sheared annually - often in the spring time, when they no long need their warm and protective coats. This is a complex process that often sees shearing teams being brought in to shear hundreds or even thousands of sheep over the course of a few days, harvesting the wool skilfully to avoid putting the animals under stress.
Our Irish weavers work with only the best quality fleeces, which usually come from the sides and shoulders of the sheep and provide more uniformity of length and quality. When shorn fleeces are sorted, they are graded, a process which also takes into account the texture and colour of the wool. Wool tweed is made from the finest of fleeces, and the natural colours, from creamy whites to deep browns and rich greys, are crucial to the final colours of the tweed garments produced from the wool.
Preparing the Wool
Once shearing has been carried out and fleeces graded, they must be washed before any further processing. Sheep wool contains natural lanolin and dirt and other debris needs to be removed from the fleeces at this stage. Wool must be washed thoroughly but gently, to preserve the integrity of the fibres while removing some of the lanolin and any impurities. Traditionally, this process would have been carried out by washing the wool in large vats with natural soaps, and it is still done this way in traditional mills.
Once the wool has been washed, it must be dried gently and then carded, which aligns the fibres in the wool and prepares them to be spun. The carding process can be carried out by hand, using carding tools with fine wire teeth, or by machine, which enables larger quantities to be processed without changing the quality. Once wool has been carded, the resulting soft wool rolls are known as rovings and are ready to be dyed.
Bringing in the Colour
Irish tweed is recognisable for its subtle colouring, and many traditional mills still achieve this effect by using natural dyes and dyeing methods that have been used in Ireland for centuries. Natural dyes usually come from the landscapes around us, and historically, weavers would have used lichen, which produces soft browns and greys, and flowers such as gorse, which give a golden yellow shade. Blackberries have long been used in the dyeing process, creating deep purple and blue tones that echo the heathers we find in our beautiful countryside, while bog oak and turf can yield rich browns and blacks that have been popular for centuries.
Natural dyes provide a depth of variation that is often superior to synthetic dyes, bringing texture and complexity to the finished products. Wool tends to absorb natural dyes unevenly, creating subtle variations that bring a unique touch to every piece. The colours blend seamlessly, and the flecks and subtle differences in shade contribute to the overall effect. Today, synthetic dyes are often used in the production process to provide uniformity and longevity, but these are still inspired by the Irish landscape and the names of our colour options remind us of this rich heritage, with references such as ‘moss green’, ‘heather’ and ‘stone grey’.
The Spinning Process
Once it has been washed, carded and dyed, wool can be spun into the yarn that is used for knitting and weaving. Throughout history, Irish spinning has been highly regarded and has created relatively thick yarns with a distinctive texture and appearance. Today, most yarn will be spun by machine but the aim is to replicate this irregular texture, which brings character to the wool, especially if it will be used in tweed fabrics.
During spinning, the woollen fibres are twisted together, and this creates yarn that is strong and durable, and ideal for weaving. Wool that is twisted more tightly gives a hardwearing yarn, while a looser twist creates a softer, more pliable yarn. The traditional Irish tweed is made from firmly twisted yarns that enhance the durability and weather-resistant qualities of the natural wool, and we bring a contemporary influence to this by using wool blends that contain softer wools for a luxurious touch.
Weaving: The Fabric Comes Together
Weaving threads into cloth such as tweed is an art form that has been central to human society for thousands of years. The distinctive patterns of Irish tweed are created by artisans in the same way today that they have been for centuries, and weaving requires a careful balance of technical precision and creativity.
Weaving has traditionally been carried out on wooden looms, and weavers such as the experts at Branigan Weavers still use antique looms that are more than two hundred years old to create their masterpieces. Weaving is a process of setting up warp threads that run lengthwise on the loom, and then weaving the weft threads through these using a shuttle. This process is carried out by a machine loom to create most of the woven cloth we see today, but this can still be a process of artistic development and is often finished by hand.
Irish tweed is often recognised for the weaving patterns it incorporates, particularly Herringbone, which creates a distinctive V-shaped pattern that is especially durable and stylish. This is a classic pattern that is popular for scarves and jackets, as well as Irish caps, and this Tweed Herringbone Flat Cap in green is an excellent example of the quality and workmanship that goes into these designs. Donegal tweed is another popular pattern, with colourful flecks, made from tiny knots of contrasting wool, throughout the fabric. The Donegal Tweed Flat Cap is a timeless design made from this traditional fabric, handwoven and finished with a luxurious quilted lining for comfort.
Weaving is an intricate skill, and the quality of the fabric made by a master weaver is noticeably superior to a machine or novice weaver. The balance must be right to create outstanding fabrics, using consistent tension and correcting any imperfections immediately. Watching a master weaver at work is a treat, allowing you to appreciate their instinctive feel for the process as they work with the loom in precise rhythm. Irish weaving skills were passed down through generations, and this is an industry that has sustained families and communities for millennia. The woven products we source from our local master weavers carry a piece of Ireland’s heritage in every thread, and we are proud to be part of the process of preserving these skills for new generations.
Finishing the Fabric
After weaving, tweed must be finished to give it the look we know and love. The fabric will be washed and gently beaten, a process known as fulling, or milling, which causes the fibres to ‘felt’ slightly, so that the fabric shrinks and tightens. The way this process is carried out will determine the final texture and look of the fabric, with lightly fulled tweed retaining a soft, loose feel, while heavily fulled tweed is tighter, stiffer and more waterproof. Most of the tweed that is used to make clothing will fall in between the two extremes, producing a fabric that is weather-resistant, durable and strong but not too rigid.
Once it has been fulled, the tweed fabric is usually steamed or pressed to finish it. At this stage, some tweed fabrics will be brushed to create a softer surface. This finish will be determined by the weaver and the mill creating the tweed, based on their expertise in working with these fabrics. Once tweed fabric is finished to perfection, the process of making garments begins, and the Irish caps that are loved all over the world begin to take shape.
Cap Making: An Irish Art Form
Irish caps are made in an age-old tradition, beginning with pattern making that takes into account the thickness of the tweed and the way it will behave when cut and stitched. A skilled pattern maker will bring their expertise to this stage, creating templates that can be sized up and down, incorporate the correct proportions and fit comfortably.
Tweed must be cut precisely, with an awareness of the direction of the weave, known as the grain, as cutting on the grain is essential to enable the finished cap to maintain its shape. Pattern cutting is precise, to avoid wasting the precious tweed fabric, taking note of patterns such as Herringbone to ensure that they are correctly aligned.
Once the pattern has been cut, the pieces of the cap will be hand-sewn or machine-sewn together, and this process will vary according to the style of the cap. Eight-panel caps are brought together in a design reminiscent of a spinning wheel and finished with a button on top of the crown, while flat caps are put together with the crown attached to the sides and peak. The beauty is in the details, and strong seams are crucial to the durability of the finished cap. The quality and comfort of the final design depend upon the way in which these caps are put together, and some specific details make all the difference:
• Hand finishing. Every authentic Irish cap will be inspected by hand, even if machines are used in the construction process, and many have hand-stitched seams or button detail to produce truly unique items.
• Linings. The lining of an Irish cap can change the way it feels on the head, and high-quality lining materials, such as organic cotton and silk, bring a touch of luxury to the finished product. Quilted linings are often selected for warmth, and linings are often attached by hand.
• Reinforced construction. The quality of an Irish cap is evident in the small details, such as additional stitching or interfacing to reinforce stress points in the design. Extra strengthening where the peak is attached to the crown will ensure that the cap lasts longer and maintains its structure more effectively.
These details are all part of the process of making genuine Irish tweed caps, as integral to the process as the weaving of the tweed fabric itself. Imitation caps that are made from inferior quality fabrics do not offer the same longevity, style and comfort, and we will never compromise on the standards of the caps we stock.
Artisan Irish Weaving at Weavers of Ireland
At Weavers of Ireland, you’ll find an extensive range of woven garments, hats and blankets that are made in the traditional style, using weaving skills that have been important in Ireland for many, many years. Our catalogue includes clothing and homewares made from the finest Irish wool, and we work with expert craftspeople who are committed to preserving their skills and the heritage of their crafts for future generations to enjoy.
